The Veggie Bus visited the following cities / provinces. For restaurant information, tips and more go to the specific pages, or read on for some useful general information about veggie eating in China. Beijing, Guangxi (Guilin, Yangshou), Yunnan (Kunming, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Lugu Hu) and Sichuan (Kangding, Chengdu, Emei Shan, Danba).
Introduction
Upon informing some meat eating friends that China was the first stop on The Veggie Bus's world tour, the Bus was met with laughter and comments along the lines of, 'you'll end up eating dog, or pigs testicle'. We are happy to say that no animals were inadvertently eaten in the making of The Veggie Bus China. Whilst Carnivorous Carl (who had snuck aboard the Bus) groaned as another chicken foot stir fry was placed before him, the Bus got to sample the culinary wonders of china, Veggie Bus style. And it's not like the drab Chinese food back home - it's flavorsome, fiery and always an experience.
Introduction
Upon informing some meat eating friends that China was the first stop on The Veggie Bus's world tour, the Bus was met with laughter and comments along the lines of, 'you'll end up eating dog, or pigs testicle'. We are happy to say that no animals were inadvertently eaten in the making of The Veggie Bus China. Whilst Carnivorous Carl (who had snuck aboard the Bus) groaned as another chicken foot stir fry was placed before him, the Bus got to sample the culinary wonders of china, Veggie Bus style. And it's not like the drab Chinese food back home - it's flavorsome, fiery and always an experience.
Chinese eating
Bouzi - steamed dumplings at Kunming Market
Although many years ago the prevalence of Buddhism and Taoism in China made it a county abundant with vegetarians, times have now changed. In recent history meat was considered a luxury and a sign of wealth and status. It is therefore now devoured by many Chinese across the country and has become an integral part of most meals. However, vegetarian eating is possible, and it is tasty. Meals in China are an event; many dishes are shared amongst a table rather than each person having their own dish. Therefore whether you're in a big group of veggies or out with a few meat eaters, you can order a variety of dishes to satisfy all.
We were going to include a section on Chinese etiquette here but in truth there isn't really any. Burping, slurping and generally making as much of a mess as you can are generally considered signs of appreciation for the food. The only things you'll have to get your head (and your hands) around are those tricky chopsticks! If you want some instructions then here's a good video to show you how! Click here.
Useful Phrases
Veggie Bus top tip: take a phrase book, use it, and make sure the book includes phrases written in the Chinese characters as chances are you'll have to point. It’s also handy to have the dishes and names of separate vegetables written in Chinese - the Lonely Planet phrase book has a decent list of Chinese dishes.
Here are the main phrases you'll need to eat veggie in China (Mandarin):
wo chi su - I am a vegetarian
wo bu chi rou - I don't eat meat
wo bu chi yu - I don't eat fish
zhe li you mai su shi ma - Do you sell vegetarian food?
You'll also need the phrase 'Is it cooked in meat stock' depending on how strict you are.
Vegetarian Restaurants
Veggie restaurants in China predominantly feature mock meat dishes made of tofu, bean curd etc, and they're mostly geared towards the Western tourists. For those of you, who eat the occasional quorn sausage but mainly stick to the leaves, try veggie dumplings, noodles or the exotic vegetable dishes on offer. For those of you who practically live on soya mince, then these dishes are a good option, and for the different seasonings they are worth a try. The problem the Bus had with the mock meat dishes was that they really did look and taste like meat - even down to having fatty bits! The Bus stuck to the unusual veg such as lotus root and bamboo shoots (something you're not going to get in the West), and every new veg was a pleasant surprise. The best thing about eating in veggie restaurants is that even if the menu is in Chinese, you can guarantee you're not going to get meat, even if it looks like it!
Now, the slight inconveniences with sticking to veggie restaurants are; 1) they're expensive in comparison to the rest of the food in China, 2) you might upset friends who want their dally meat intake, and 3) you may miss out on some of the best authentic cooking China has to offer. The average meal in a vegetarian restaurant will cost from Y40 to Y100 per head. Ok, so not expensive if you're on a 2 week holiday and have some spending money to spank, but if you're traveling for a long period like we are on the Bus, then it soon adds up. Especially when you can get street snacks for Y2, noodles from the 7/11 (Beijing) or street stalls for under Y3 and a Chinese meal in a normal restaurant for Y4 - Y40 per head (plus the beer is usually cheaper in the local joints).
Veggie bus top tip: find a Buddhist temple and you'll find a veggie restaurant, or a better selection of veggie friendly options. Often these places are also void of any onion or garlic, these vegetables are said to inflame the senses! No good for Buddhist monks.
Vegetarian Food in Chinese Restaurants
Now to eat vegetarian in a normal restaurant in China, you WILL need a phrasebook, or at least the phrases given above. And don't be afraid to point. The Chinese language is tonal and if you get the tones slightly wrong the sentence takes on a whole different meaning - as we found out. Most Chinese restaurants will have numerous veggie options, those closer to Buddhist Temples will always have more. Most places will have a few main courses, but some may have only vegetarian side dishes - so have a few and share with friends. Chinese eating is all about sharing a variety of dishes. We often asked for 'suchai' (vegetables) and the waitress would point us to the vegetable section or page of the menu and we'd just choose random dishes. Remember, the places off the tourist streets with no English menu will be a lot cheaper and often tastier than those with an English menu. This method of choosing random veggies has obvious flaws, but we had a few hits and tried things we wouldn't have if we knew what we were ordering - like a plate of salted chilies.
Some of the Veggie Bus favorite Chinese dishes...
Nan-gwa: Fried pumpkin with mild spice, available all over China but a specialty in the East.
Mapo Dofu: Spicy tofu, a specialty of Sichuan cosine usually made with the mouth tingling Sichuan pepper. Regional variations available. Often called 'Spicy Tofu' on English menus. Be warned this dish is sometimes served with minced beef so when you order tell the waiter 'bu roo' (no meat).
Kong Chin Si: Hollow fresh greens, lightly fried and salted. A good complement to any meal.
Qing Jiao Yu Mi: Sweet corn with green peppers.
Fan Qie Chao Dan: Tomatoes and eggs (scrambled).
You Zha Tu-Dou Tiao: Crispy fried potatoes (Too much of a tongue twister? Try saying 'To-Dou' (potato) and usually you'll get either crispy or soft fried potatoes, no meat).
Miantio: Miantio means noodles. In a noodle bar ask for 'Miantio bu roo' (noodles no meat); this usually works and knocks a few yen off your bill.
Chowfain: Fried rice. Add the word 'suchai' to ensure you get vegetable fried rice. Chowfain Suchai.
Bouzi (bouzah): Thick steamed buns filled with greens, carrot, onions and sometimes seaweed. Always ask for 'Suchai'.
Vegetarian Food in the Supermarkets and Fresh food markets
Going into a Chinese supermarket as a squeamish vegetarian bus is hard work. However, finding a good vegetarian meal for under 50p is easy. You can ask the staff using your phrase book, or easily guess just by looking - a lot of noodle salads have clear containers, and most meat noodles will have a picture of the meat on. Then there's a variety of breads, dumplings and cheap fruits. These are often fresher bought in the fresh food markets.
Now, the Bus is not going to lie; the fresh food markets do contain sights that are testing for any vegetarian's stomach, but once you get past that (and you'll have to travel extensively in China), there are a variety of veggie options inside. The Chinese version of a veggie bar - mostly veggies and tofu (spicy); potato balls; egg and spring onion filled pancakes; dumplings; corn on the cob; yak cheese (Yunnan); a variety of breads - both sweet and savory; and an exotic selection of fruits!
We were going to include a section on Chinese etiquette here but in truth there isn't really any. Burping, slurping and generally making as much of a mess as you can are generally considered signs of appreciation for the food. The only things you'll have to get your head (and your hands) around are those tricky chopsticks! If you want some instructions then here's a good video to show you how! Click here.
Useful Phrases
Veggie Bus top tip: take a phrase book, use it, and make sure the book includes phrases written in the Chinese characters as chances are you'll have to point. It’s also handy to have the dishes and names of separate vegetables written in Chinese - the Lonely Planet phrase book has a decent list of Chinese dishes.
Here are the main phrases you'll need to eat veggie in China (Mandarin):
wo chi su - I am a vegetarian
wo bu chi rou - I don't eat meat
wo bu chi yu - I don't eat fish
zhe li you mai su shi ma - Do you sell vegetarian food?
You'll also need the phrase 'Is it cooked in meat stock' depending on how strict you are.
Vegetarian Restaurants
Veggie restaurants in China predominantly feature mock meat dishes made of tofu, bean curd etc, and they're mostly geared towards the Western tourists. For those of you, who eat the occasional quorn sausage but mainly stick to the leaves, try veggie dumplings, noodles or the exotic vegetable dishes on offer. For those of you who practically live on soya mince, then these dishes are a good option, and for the different seasonings they are worth a try. The problem the Bus had with the mock meat dishes was that they really did look and taste like meat - even down to having fatty bits! The Bus stuck to the unusual veg such as lotus root and bamboo shoots (something you're not going to get in the West), and every new veg was a pleasant surprise. The best thing about eating in veggie restaurants is that even if the menu is in Chinese, you can guarantee you're not going to get meat, even if it looks like it!
Now, the slight inconveniences with sticking to veggie restaurants are; 1) they're expensive in comparison to the rest of the food in China, 2) you might upset friends who want their dally meat intake, and 3) you may miss out on some of the best authentic cooking China has to offer. The average meal in a vegetarian restaurant will cost from Y40 to Y100 per head. Ok, so not expensive if you're on a 2 week holiday and have some spending money to spank, but if you're traveling for a long period like we are on the Bus, then it soon adds up. Especially when you can get street snacks for Y2, noodles from the 7/11 (Beijing) or street stalls for under Y3 and a Chinese meal in a normal restaurant for Y4 - Y40 per head (plus the beer is usually cheaper in the local joints).
Veggie bus top tip: find a Buddhist temple and you'll find a veggie restaurant, or a better selection of veggie friendly options. Often these places are also void of any onion or garlic, these vegetables are said to inflame the senses! No good for Buddhist monks.
Vegetarian Food in Chinese Restaurants
Now to eat vegetarian in a normal restaurant in China, you WILL need a phrasebook, or at least the phrases given above. And don't be afraid to point. The Chinese language is tonal and if you get the tones slightly wrong the sentence takes on a whole different meaning - as we found out. Most Chinese restaurants will have numerous veggie options, those closer to Buddhist Temples will always have more. Most places will have a few main courses, but some may have only vegetarian side dishes - so have a few and share with friends. Chinese eating is all about sharing a variety of dishes. We often asked for 'suchai' (vegetables) and the waitress would point us to the vegetable section or page of the menu and we'd just choose random dishes. Remember, the places off the tourist streets with no English menu will be a lot cheaper and often tastier than those with an English menu. This method of choosing random veggies has obvious flaws, but we had a few hits and tried things we wouldn't have if we knew what we were ordering - like a plate of salted chilies.
Some of the Veggie Bus favorite Chinese dishes...
Nan-gwa: Fried pumpkin with mild spice, available all over China but a specialty in the East.
Mapo Dofu: Spicy tofu, a specialty of Sichuan cosine usually made with the mouth tingling Sichuan pepper. Regional variations available. Often called 'Spicy Tofu' on English menus. Be warned this dish is sometimes served with minced beef so when you order tell the waiter 'bu roo' (no meat).
Kong Chin Si: Hollow fresh greens, lightly fried and salted. A good complement to any meal.
Qing Jiao Yu Mi: Sweet corn with green peppers.
Fan Qie Chao Dan: Tomatoes and eggs (scrambled).
You Zha Tu-Dou Tiao: Crispy fried potatoes (Too much of a tongue twister? Try saying 'To-Dou' (potato) and usually you'll get either crispy or soft fried potatoes, no meat).
Miantio: Miantio means noodles. In a noodle bar ask for 'Miantio bu roo' (noodles no meat); this usually works and knocks a few yen off your bill.
Chowfain: Fried rice. Add the word 'suchai' to ensure you get vegetable fried rice. Chowfain Suchai.
Bouzi (bouzah): Thick steamed buns filled with greens, carrot, onions and sometimes seaweed. Always ask for 'Suchai'.
Vegetarian Food in the Supermarkets and Fresh food markets
Going into a Chinese supermarket as a squeamish vegetarian bus is hard work. However, finding a good vegetarian meal for under 50p is easy. You can ask the staff using your phrase book, or easily guess just by looking - a lot of noodle salads have clear containers, and most meat noodles will have a picture of the meat on. Then there's a variety of breads, dumplings and cheap fruits. These are often fresher bought in the fresh food markets.
Now, the Bus is not going to lie; the fresh food markets do contain sights that are testing for any vegetarian's stomach, but once you get past that (and you'll have to travel extensively in China), there are a variety of veggie options inside. The Chinese version of a veggie bar - mostly veggies and tofu (spicy); potato balls; egg and spring onion filled pancakes; dumplings; corn on the cob; yak cheese (Yunnan); a variety of breads - both sweet and savory; and an exotic selection of fruits!
 Litz - the yellow plums of China |
 Yak cheese in Lijiang |
Eating the pot noodle
There is also the Chinese equivalent to the Pot Noodle - great for train journey’s and a cheap eat. The 'sweet potato' flavour is the only vegetarian one we found, and it was... ok. You'll feel left out if you don't take one or two on a long train journey!
Veggie Bus top tip: Be careful when buying street food as veg is usually cooked in the same oil used for meat. Grilled kebab style veggies or noodle vendors are safer veggie options.
Western Food in China
You don't want to do it, but if you are staying in China for more than a week or 2, then chances are that you'll start to crave a sandwich or a pizza. And in the main tourist destinations there will be a cafe or fast food counter to cater for your needs. Obviously as a vegetarian you wouldn't go to a KFC or McDonalds, but there are Subways, Starbucks and Pizza Huts on a few main streets in the bigger cities (Chengdu in particular is abundant with Western eateries). The Bus managed to avoid all of the above and only eat in local cafes / bars, even if we weren't eating local food. Remember when eating Western food in China that it's not the real thing, it's not made with the same ingredients that you're used to, and unfortunately 80% of the time it will be extremely bland, especially when compared to the fiery Chinese flavorings.
Veggie Bus Advice
The Veggie Bus says mix it up! Sample a few of the vegetarian restaurants, make an effort in the non vegetarian eateries and sample some street snacks using your phrase book. Brave the fresh food markets, and inevitably you'll need something bland to soak up all those flavors and spices - we had fun trying to eat a broccoli pizza with chopsticks!
A useful app - Veggie in Chinahttp://www.veggieinchina.comhttp://itunes.apple.com/us/app/veggie-in-china/id473915713?mt=8Not one, but five free copies of the app veggie in China are available - just follow @veggieinchina and tweet about the app to win. Simple!
Useful Links
We've scanned the web for the best veggie China information so you don't have to!www.vegetarian-china.info - this website details the different dishes found in restaurants and also provides a comprehensive list of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in the popular it is definitely worth a visit for a more comprehensive view of vegetarian China!
http://beijingexpert.com - a bit out dated but worth a look for Beijing veggie recommendations
Time Out Beijing - Time Out's review of veggie Beijing
China Lonely Planet
China Rough Guide
Veggie Bus top tip: Be careful when buying street food as veg is usually cooked in the same oil used for meat. Grilled kebab style veggies or noodle vendors are safer veggie options.
Western Food in China
You don't want to do it, but if you are staying in China for more than a week or 2, then chances are that you'll start to crave a sandwich or a pizza. And in the main tourist destinations there will be a cafe or fast food counter to cater for your needs. Obviously as a vegetarian you wouldn't go to a KFC or McDonalds, but there are Subways, Starbucks and Pizza Huts on a few main streets in the bigger cities (Chengdu in particular is abundant with Western eateries). The Bus managed to avoid all of the above and only eat in local cafes / bars, even if we weren't eating local food. Remember when eating Western food in China that it's not the real thing, it's not made with the same ingredients that you're used to, and unfortunately 80% of the time it will be extremely bland, especially when compared to the fiery Chinese flavorings.
Veggie Bus Advice
The Veggie Bus says mix it up! Sample a few of the vegetarian restaurants, make an effort in the non vegetarian eateries and sample some street snacks using your phrase book. Brave the fresh food markets, and inevitably you'll need something bland to soak up all those flavors and spices - we had fun trying to eat a broccoli pizza with chopsticks!
A useful app - Veggie in Chinahttp://www.veggieinchina.comhttp://itunes.apple.com/us/app/veggie-in-china/id473915713?mt=8Not one, but five free copies of the app veggie in China are available - just follow @veggieinchina and tweet about the app to win. Simple!
Useful Links
We've scanned the web for the best veggie China information so you don't have to!www.vegetarian-china.info - this website details the different dishes found in restaurants and also provides a comprehensive list of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in the popular it is definitely worth a visit for a more comprehensive view of vegetarian China!
http://beijingexpert.com - a bit out dated but worth a look for Beijing veggie recommendations
Time Out Beijing - Time Out's review of veggie Beijing
China Lonely Planet
China Rough Guide
